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“Climbing Everest Expedition is a process, not an event. A lot of it is tedious. Very little of it is glorious when you are there- that magically changes upon return. Much of the satisfaction and feeling of achievement, when it gets down to it, is very private — Dan Holle
A climb of Mt. Everest is not a mere climb. It is a show that goes on until 8848m in which you see two fighters; your will and the adversaries. It is up to you which side you are to take. Take the side of the will and expedite yourself or succumb to the adversaries and stop. The journey starts with a mountain flight from Lukla.
Great Nepal Treks & Expedition offers its clients a world-class service from Base Camp to high camps to approach for Everest Expedition (South Col). With all-inclusive price gives you a mere chance to focus only on your Expedition. For us Safety comes First, such as we operate with well-trained team of Climbing guides with years of experience. This is a serious climb and mistakes can have serious consequences. This is why we focus extensively on safety and accident prevention for both clients and guides on our Everest expedition. No expedition is without risk and certainly not one to the highest Mountain in the world. However, we implement rigorous safety standards to minimize the risk. We’d also like to highlight that our guides and staff are all employed under ethical standards.
For Everest Expedition, all group members will be fully trained in the appropriate techniques required to negotiate any fixed ropes using jumars, belay devices and prussiks for going up and down the mountain and we will also spend time looking at how to negotiate up, down and across ladders. All members will also be made aware of how to use the oxygen systems and we will discuss the benefits and drawbacks of various flow rates and protocols.
South Col Route Camps:
Everest Base Camp, located on a moving glacier at 5,200 meters from sea level where you will spend up to 45 days. Conditions in base camp will remain consistent during the climbing period and will consist of shifting and moving tents and platforms as the ice moves and melts. The area is harsh, but beautiful surrounded by Pumori, Lola, Nuptse, Nutse and the Khumbu Icefall with warm mornings and occasional afternoon snow squalls. With so many expedition teams at Base Camp, it looks and feels like a small village in the Himalaya.
Camp One (C1): 19,357’/5900m
Reaching Camp One is the most technical part of a south side climb since it crosses the Khumbu Icefall. The Icefall is 2,000 feet of moving ice with deep crevasses, towering ice sera’s and avalanches off Everest’s west shoulder. During the climbing period, we attempt to spend only 2 nights at Camp I for acclimation.
Camp Two (C2): 20,998’/6400m
Camp Two is located in a lateral moraine at the bottom of the west ridge. It is a very safe and sheltered location with tremendous views of Lhotse. All companies set-up their main climbing camp for the duration of the climbing period here with tents for individual climbers along with kitchen and dining tents. Camp 2 is the main acclimatization camp and the base for camp 3 acclimatization climbing and the final summit attempt. This is the camp, where you are spending the most time after base camp.
Camp Three (C3): 23,294’/7100m
Climbing the Lhotse Face to Camp Three is often difficult since almost all climbers are feeling the effects of high altitude and are not yet using supplemental oxygen. The Lhotse Face is steep and the ice is hard, but the route is fixed with rope and the angles can range from 30 to 45 degrees. It is a long climb to C3 but is required for acclimatization prior to a summit bid. You will spend 2 nights at camp three for acclimatization and the summit push.
Camp Four (South Col): 26,300’/8000m
Welcome to the moon. This is a flat area covered with loose rock and surrounded by Everest to the north and Lhotse on the south. Located at the South Col is the last camp; it is easily accessible by a majority of climbers without supplementary oxygen. There are two rock sections to navigate before camp 4: the Yellow Band an inter-layer of marble, phyllite and semi schist rock and the Geneva Spur, an anvil shaped rib of black rock. Both of these areas are set-up with fixed ropes.
The last section from the South Col to the summit takes 09-13 hours to navigate. There is the Balcony, the Hillary Step, and the south summit before reaching the central summit. The route to the true summit is a moderate snow slope and while tired, adrenaline keeps most climbers moving at this point.
Arrive in Kathmandu. You will be welcomed by a Great Nepal Representative at the airport and be transferred to your hotel. You will have a brief explanation about the travel itinerary. Stay overnight at Hotel in Kathmandu.
This day we are busy for briefing about expedition, documentation and last minute shopping and preparation for departure to the trekking and climbing route. You will be kept in get set position.
Early morning, you will be transferred to Domestic Airport to board your onward flight to Lukla Airport commonly known as Tenzing-Hillary Airport. After wonderful 30 minutes on one of the most scenic mountain flights, you will be at Lukla. After having breakfast, you begin the trek which takes around to Phakding village and spends the night there. Overnight stay in Tea House Lodge.
In this Day, the trail will take you along the DudhKoshi River while ascending through Himalayan Pine and Deodar Cedar forests to your destination, Namche Bazaar, a historic trading point for Nepalese and Tibetan traders and the tourist “hub” for Khumbu trekking. Along the way, you will get your first glimpse of Mt Everest as well as other mountain peaks such as KusumKangru (6369m) and Mt Thamserku (6608m). You will see paintings of Buddhist deities at Benkar and a small gompa at Monjo as well as explore the granite bluff carved with Tibetan Mantra’s en route to Jorsale. Overnight stay in Tea House Lodge.
This day you will spend in Namche itself for acclimatization purposes. As the altitude will now increase significantly, a day for acclimatization is paramount and strictly advisable for prospective trekkers. Options for today include a visit the Everest View Hotel which is situated at 3900m for panoramic views of the surrounding mountain range and our first proper view of Mt Everest. On our way, we pass the Syangboche airstrip and there is an option to visit Khumjungvillage which is the location of the Hilary School. Overnight stay in Tea House Lodge.
On the seventh day of the trek, you walk about 4-5 hours from Namche to reach Tengboche which is the location of one of the region’s biggest Buddhist monasteries. Tengboche is a small traditional Sherpa village in the Khumbu region from where there is a beautiful panoramic view of Mount Everest and other Mountain peaks including Mount Lhotse & Mount Nuptse. The highlight of the day is stunning views of Mt Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Thamserku, and AmaDablam. You will have the opportunity to see wildlife such as pheasants, musk deer or Himalayan Thar. Overnight stay in Tea House Lodge.
Today you trek (4-5 hrs) from Tengboche to Dingboche (4350m/14271ft). Catch glimpses of Lhotse and Ama Dablam where you get teahouse or lodge accommodation in full board basis. Overnight stay in Tea House Lodge.
After breakfast trek to Lobuche which takes around 4-5 hours. Overnight stay in Tea House Lodge.
Rest for acclimatization process for further trekking. Overnight stay in Tea House Lodge.
The trail will bring you to Thangma Riju for a 360-degree view of the mountains where you will catch the very first glimpse of Kala Patthar before reaching Gorakshep. Overnight stay in Tea House Lodge.
After breakfast trek to Everest Base Camp. You will have preparation for tented camping in Base camp for further expedition. Spend the day checking out the life at Base Camp and watching the daily preparations of our climbing team, taking a look at how meals are prepared, and have a chance to meet our Everest Sherpa staff. Overnight stay in Tented Camp.
Climbing route: We will see four camps as soon as we reach the Base Camp. Camp I (19,500 ft./5,943 m) situated at the top of the icefall will be used as the intermediate camp until Camp II (Advanced Base Camp) at an altitude of 21,000 ft./6,400 m is not made in Western CWN. Camp II will be our basement during the time of placements of Camp III (23,500 ft./7,162 m) and Camp IV (26,300 ft./8,016 m), and also for dining, cooking and sleeping.
Camp III, stands at the head of the cirque on the Lhotse face comprising of three and four man tents used as the intermediate camp to reach Camp IV (High Camp) on the South Col. We don’t require much gears to carry at Camp III as most of them are carried directly from Camp II to Camp IV by the Sherpa. Above Camp II, the climbers require to carry the oxygen. From Camp II, we will travel along the Southeast Ridge to the South Summit and traverse for few hundred meters before we reach the Hillary Step then onto the main summit.
Summit attempts: After the establishment of Camp III and IV, we will return to Base Camp for rest and organize the summit team. Then we will return to Advance Base and move to Camp III, if the good weather prevails. On day2, we will move to Camp IV. Day 3, early morning we will start for our summit and reach before midday. Return back to the South Col after we summit. On day 4 we will be escorted down to Camp II.
Retrace your trial back to Dingboche (4350m/14271ft) via Everest Base Camp and Lobuche (5018m/16463ft). Overnight stay in Tea House Lodge.
After breakfast descend towards Tengboche (3,870m/12,694ft). Overnight stay in Tea House Lodge.
From Tengboche, you descend down to Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,280 ft) after 4 hrs trek. Overnight stay in Tea House Lodge.
Today you will descend from Namche Bazar. Along the trail, you cross the Cross the suspension bridges on Dudh Koshi River and its tributaries. Also, you will get a chance to witness Sherpa culture and their impressive devotion to God. Overnight stay in Tea House Lodge.
You will board a flight back to Kathmandu while enjoying exhilarating mountain views for 30 minutes. The rest of the time in Kathmandu, you can spend time shopping or for buying souvenirs. Overnight stay at a hotel in Kathmandu.
Today you will be going for sightseeing around the world heritage sites in the Kathmandu valley including, Kathmandu Durbar square, Bouddhanath Temple and Pashupatinath Temple. Later in the evening, a farewell dinner will be served in a Traditional Nepali Restaurant where you will be able to enjoy authentic cuisine with cultural program as a celebration of your Succesful Expedition. Overnight in Kathmandu.
Your journey in Nepal comes to an end today! Our representative will escort you to the airport approximately 3 hours before your scheduled flight. On your way home, you have plenty of time to plan for your next adventure tour in the wonderful Himalayan country. There will be heart touching relationship between you and our company during this journey. We will be missing you and praying for your safe departure home.
To enable all expedition members to acclimatize well and hence maximize their chances of success, our expedition programs are prepared with sufficient time for acclimatization. Adaptation to the altitude takes time and there can be no short-cuts, even if supplementary oxygen is used in the final stages. The atmospheric pressure at the base camp is half of that at the sea level. A thorough program of acclimatization is built into the itinerary which consists of regulated height ascents, followed by descents and rests before the final ascent to the summit. This will prevent the climbers to get rid from altitude sickness
Although our guides carry first aid medical kit, it is better to carry a supply of first aid items for your own personal use according to your health conditions. Here are the list of some general as well as some special medications you may require:
– Antiseptic cream (Betadine)
– Sunblock SPF 30+
– Throat lozenges
– Painkillers and anti-inflammatory such as Aspirin, Paracetamol, Ibuprofen etc.
– Band-aids, bandage, compression bandage and ‘Second Skin’ for blisters
– Re-hydration salts. (Trioral, Electrobin, Oral Rehydrating Salt)
– Dextrose glucose tablets
– Water treatment tablets
– Your prescription medications
– Antibiotics for longer climbing and expedition style trips
You will be affected by high altitude problems if it is your fist trip at a high altitude. The altitude has some important beneficial effects on the human body and your trips have been designed to enable these. Please familiarize yourself with the information on AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) and understand how to avoid it and read on benefits of high altitude and take advantage of these to improve your body’ metabolism.
Altitude sickness is the reaction of the body adjusting to decreasing amounts of oxygen. The high altitude slowly decreases the flow of oxygen means the higher you climb, the flow of oxygen is very thin resulting the malfunction of body. Altitude sickness most commonly occurs from above 2,800 meters (9,200ft) but this is different for everyone – there is simply no way of knowing your own susceptibility prior to being at altitude thus it is vital for you to monitor your own health. AMS occurs when the body is unable to adopt at the higher altitude having less amount of oxygen. At an altitude of 5490m (18000 ft.), the oxygen availability becomes just the half of the availability at sea level. While only a third of oxygen is available at the summit of Mt. Everest. Symptoms may be mild and subside/go away after a day’s rest, or if it is ignored it could lead to death.
Symptoms can appear within 1-2 hours although most often appear 6-10 hours after ascent and generally subside in 1-2 days as the body adjusts to altitude. They may reappear as you continue to go higher. Symptoms of AMS usually occur gradually and can be one or a combination of the following:
• Headache: Due to the less amount of oxygen in air, the blood influences the blood vessels to spread wide in order to supply more oxygen to the brain and which cause them to show the early symptom of AMS.
• Dopiness: The trekkers or climbers feel very sleepy but could not.
• Shortness of breath: The breathing pattern changes as the breathing becomes faster and deeper than normal in order to get enough oxygen and rapid pulse
• Loss of appetite and nausea: Despite of physical exercise, the trekkers don’t have an appetite to eat.
High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE)
If one accumulates of fluid in the lungs and mild fever then, there is a chance of High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). The filling of fluid in the lungs is Pulmonary Edema. The fluid blocks the passage of fresh oxygen to get into the lungs which causes the shortage of oxygen. Though the exact reason for the HAPE has not been identified, scientists think that pressure of blood vessel around the lungs is directly proportional to the altitude. As a result the smaller blood vessels leak allowing the fluid to escape to the lungs. The treatment for the HAPE victims is to give the oxygen at the rate of 4 liters a minute, using Portable Altitude Chamber (PAC). In case of unavailability of PAC bag or oxygen, one is taken down to the low altitude which is the only way of life-saving. HAPE can also lead to unconsciousness which may also results to death in a short period of time.
High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE)
HACE is the accumulation of fluid in the brain due of the swollen blood vessels to the brain. HACE is also seen within a couple of hours and can send the patient to coma and take his/her life in just few hours likewise to HAPE. The excessive flow of blood to the brain due to the low-level oxygen causes vasodilation which eventually leads to leakage of blood vessels to the brain. A 4 to 8mg of dexamethasone is given as a first dose to those who suffer from such sickness and then 4mg Diamox is given an every six hours gap. Similarly, 2-4 liters/minute oxygen is given and one is taken to down if it is necessary.
– A dry cough, developing to a wet one with blood-tinged discharge or saliva
– Tightness in the chest & blueness/darkness of face, lips & tongue
– Low fever up to 38°C/100°F
– Severe fatigue, progressing to coma
– Severe headache symptoms not relieved by painkillers or lying down
– Confusion, disorientation & drowsiness
– Loss of balance or coordination
– Blurred or double vision/retinal hemorrhage
Certain medical conditions (such as respiratory disease) or medications (such as sleeping pills) can increase the risk of altitude sickness – it is important that you inform your guide of any medical conditions or medications before ascending to altitude. You can help your body to acclimatize and avoid altitude sickness by:
– Avoiding alcohol, tobacco and substances that can interfere with good delivery of oxygen to the body or cause dehydration
– Eating small, frequent meals high in carbohydrates
– Drinking plenty of water – the test of sufficient amount of water intake is ability to urinate colorless urine
– Taking it easy or have a rest. Walk at a slower pace than you would at sea level and avoid over-exertion
– Climb the mountain gradually and stop for a day or two of rest for every 600m/2000ft above 2,400m/8000ft
– Climb high but Sleep at a lower altitude if possible
– Learn how to recognize early symptoms of mountain sickness
Most travelers are able to successfully acclimatize by following the previously mentioned guidelines. However, there are instances where medical treatment is required. Ultimately, the best treatment for acute mountain sickness (AMS) is to descend to a lower altitude and rest. Early diagnosis is important. Acute mountain sickness is easier to treat in the early stages. The guide will monitor you all the time for symptoms and will pace you appropriately to minimize your exposure to AMS.Cooperating with the guide and reporting if any of the above-described symptoms are seen allows your guide to undertaking appropriate and timely action to minimize your exposure to AMS. Sufficient time for acclimatization (After 3000 meters) is also another method to minimize AMS. Following precautions can be done in order to get rid of AMS:
Don’t ascent up rapidly.
• Never use alcohol, sleeping pills and smoking.
• Drink more fluid 3-4 liters a day, clean boiled water / tea / coffee / soup / juice etc.
• Climb high and sleep low.
• Don’t go trekking alone, take guide/porter.
• Follow the advice from your guide, hotel, local people, guidebook.
• Descent if mild symptoms rapidly getting worse.
• Never leave or descent sick person along.
• Avoid getting cold.
• Take an easy and comfortable trekking route even if it is longer.
• Sleep more than normal.
Your Guide will carry some medications in First Aid Kit and may suggest for medication such as Ibuprofen, Paracetamol, combination of them or specific AMS medication. Standard and effective medication for prevention of AMS is Acetazolamide (Diamox) and it may be given to help improve breathing and reduce mild symptoms. This drug can cause increased urination. Ensure you drink plenty of fluids and avoid alcohol when taking this drug.With severe cases of AMS, our guide will contact our office in Kathmandu and arrange your evacuation by helicopter. Before we accept you on the trek we will require that you purchase health and travel insurance including helicopter rescue and hospitalization.
You never know when the unexpected situation comes and put you in hearse condition. So such cases you will be rescued by Helicopter. You are entirely liable for all the expenses incurred in evacuation. So, before coming to Nepal, please make your travel insurance. Ask your guide to arrange a runner to the nearest communication point and inform office about requirement of a helicopter. For evacuation, we require the name of the sick person and the exact location from where helicopter can airlift you. You should not leave the place after calling Helicopter for evacuation though you are feeling better than before.
On the trek, there is a facility of purchasing safe drinking water in teahouses.It is better if you carry the water purifying pills on your own. On camping trek, the water will be treated with Potassium permanganate or Iodine. On the trail, water from the streams is safe to drink, but better not to use it directly for drinking.
Security and a safe journey is our core objective of trekking. Our guide holds licenses issued by the Nepal Government and our staffs are local, honest, kind and genuine. But we also insist you to take care of your own personal belongings. If you are on ‘camping trek’ please take your main bag inside the tent once you reach campsite and put all bags and belongings in the middle of the tent when you feel sleepy. Your guide assigns a Sherpa on turn wise basis to guard the campsite throughout the night. If you are on ‘Tea house arrangement, never leave your baggage unattended and keep your lodge room locked when you go out.